Working with Lash Layers

There are some hidden secrets about natural eyelashes that you may not know when you first start your lash artistry journey… like that lashes have LAYERS.

Yup, you heard it here folks, lashes don’t grow in one perfectly synchronized line. In fact, some clients can have anywhere from 2-6 layers of lashes, making the job as a lash artist a little bit harder - but way more fun to style! Follow along as we talk about the ins and outs of working with lash layers and how to make them your b****!

What are lash layers and how can I tell how many my client has?

As mentioned, it’s pretty rare to have a client that has only one row of natural lashes. Most commonly, people will have 3 lash layers - a top layer, middle layer, and bottom layer. The best and easiest way to get an idea of how many lash layers your client has is to use two fingers to gently lift the client’s eyelid and turn your head to view the lashes from the side. You may also notice that the inner/outer corners will be thinner in layers compared to the mid-sections. 

Ok great, now how do I work with lash layers?

Note: Tape is going to be your best friend when working with layers.

Once your client is all taped and prepped for their lash set, peel off some pieces of your Nexcare Sensitive Tape and apply them to the back of your hand (after you’ve thoroughly sanitized of course), then gently remove. This helps to ensure the tape is not overly sticky where it will pull on the lashes when removing the tape. 

Take those pieces of tape and apply to the underside of the client’s natural lashes and pull them back to secure on the eyelid (shown in the illustration). 

Once all of the lashes are taped out of the way, you can grab a pair of your straight tweezers and begin pulling out the bottom layer of lashes from under the tape.

Apply the lash extensions to the isolated layer. Once complete, tape the lashes down to the gel pad. 

Repeat this process until all layers are complete!

Tip: When it comes to placement of applying the lash extensions to the natural lashes, follow this guideline for the most seamless looking set. 

Bottom layer: Apply lashes on top of natural lashes. Best to ensure the bottom layer doesn’t droop down.

Middle layer(s): Apply lashes on the top, bottom, or sides of the natural lashes. The middle layer(s) can get lashes applied on any side because they are sandwiched between the top and bottom layers.

Top layer: Apply lashes to the underside of natural lashes. This helps lift the natural lashes upwards. 

How do I style lash layers?

When working with lash layers, it’s important to understand how they can affect the overall look of your lash set. So, let’s take a look at what you can do with layers to create different outcomes.

If you’re looking for the ultimate dark, blacked-out lash set; consider using the same length on all layers to create a staircase effect. This will also give the lash set a bit more texture.

If you’re looking for a perfectly symmetrical lash set with no variation in lengths, consider using longer lashes on the bottom layer and moving to shorter lashes as you go through the middle to top layers. This will ensure all the lashes are the same length when looking at your client straight on. 

If you’re looking for a wispy, textured lash set, try playing around with multiple lengths and curls.

Another tip when styling your lashes is to use a more curled lash extension such as a “D” Curl on the bottom layer to really lift it upwards - especially on clients who have naturally straight or downward-pointing lashes. 

So, who’s ready to take on these lash layers? Remember, applying lash extensions to every layer is essential to create a full, dark lash set and with these taping tricks, you’ll be saving time and have an easier time doing so.

Happy lashing, Beauties!